Singapore Nissan Owners Group
Nissan Car Lounge - Almera, Juke, Latio, Qashqai, Sylphy, Teana Owners => Latio => Topic started by: SoL on July 16, 2008, 03:05:00 PM
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Hello, I'm new here, currently driving a 1.5 4AT sedan.
I heard that when going downhill, its better to release the accelerator while in D gear rather than to go down in N, because the engine will cut off the fuel when u release accelerator while in gear.
Is it true? Hoping to save more petrol here. ;D
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Hello, I'm new here, currently driving a 1.5 4AT sedan.
I heard that when going downhill, its better to release the accelerator while in D gear rather than to go down in N, because the engine will cut off the fuel when u release accelerator while in gear.
Is it true? Hoping to save more petrol here. ;D
how much can u save???
& in the even of a situation where one need to step on accelerator.... one will be too kan chiong to engage back to D
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When going down a slope, just release the accelerator and let the car glide down in D. You also have some engine brake for safety.
NEVER drive down a slope in N as it wears out and burns out the gearbox. I read this in an article but cannot remember the exact source.
Frequent shifting will wear out the gear box faster.
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how much can u save???
& in the even of a situation where one need to step on accelerator.... one will be too kan chiong to engage back to D
iagree with FM & Clar.
1) not much fuel to save
2) increase of risk if you push it to N gear , you lose control on the accelerator
btr dun do this.
just use D gear as per normal.
even if we stop at traffic light, if can, dun need to switch to N also, but now is habit lah... if wait for 1min at traffic light, then switch to N coz i scare if i let go the brake the car will cheong to kiss the ******** in front. pro & con lah.
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can engage parking brake at stops at traffic lights
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can engage parking brake at stops at traffic lights
Parking brake?
the "P" gear?
Btr not. Too rush to switch to D to drive off ! too rush.
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When going down a slope, just release the accelerator and let the car glide down in D. You also have some engine brake for safety.
NEVER drive down a slope in N as it wears out and burns out the gearbox. I read this in an article but cannot remember the exact source.
Frequent shifting will wear out the gear box faster.
This is true. Coasting in N for manual is ok. But it's a NO NO for auto, may ruin your auto gear box.
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can engage parking brake at stops at traffic lights
electronics nowadays is different from yesterday..... by just applying brake will virtually limit/cut off the fuel consumption to almost insignificant level @ short stoppages (traffic light, crawling conjestion etc)......
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Apply brake will cut off?
I always thought lifting foot off accelerator will cut off liao. :confused1:
Thank you thank you for your help bros!
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Parking brake?
the "P" gear?
Btr not. Too rush to switch to D to drive off ! too rush.
yes, the parking brake
drive gear still engaged
so, when need to drive off, only need to release the parking brake
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Apply brake will cut off?
I always thought lifting foot off accelerator will cut off liao. :confused1:
Thank you thank you for your help bros!
even when u lift off from accelerater.... ur car can still move rite? :smile:
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But car is already moving ma. I mean when u lift off when car is already moving, not when starting from a stop. :confused1:
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Hello, I'm new here, currently driving a 1.5 4AT sedan.
I heard that when going downhill, its better to release the accelerator while in D gear rather than to go down in N, because the engine will cut off the fuel when u release accelerator while in gear.
Is it true? Hoping to save more petrol here. ;D
Bro, like the other lation's advices, not wise to do it...Firstly, I dont think you'll save much petrol by doing so...worse still you might lose control in times of E-brake...do you previously drive a manuel car? For my previous ride, sometimes i use to turn to 'free gear' at high speed to experiment if can save petrol...but free-wheeling rather dangerous, no engine brake....
From various feedback, our ride is FC rather efficient, think should focus more on your ride foot during acceleration, i.e. dont rev too much, ....my 2-cents worth.... ;D
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Actually somebody got it right in one of the topics before but I too lazy to go find it. Basically, when you don't step on accelerator when car is moving, the fuel injectors cut off (no fuel at all). When the vehicle slow down to a preset speed 20 kph or something like that the fuel injectors turn back on again to keep the engine running.
This was something that confused me initially when I was toying with the scangauge when I was in US. There are times when the display goes 9999 mpg (basically infinite). I thought it was a update error. Later I found out it was because the fuel is cut off during deceleration causin a divide by 0 reading.
In short, when moving with enough speed, engine braking keeps engine moving (no fuel). When car is so slow that engine going to stall, fuel injection turn on again.
Keeping the above in mind, idling at the traffic light burns gas for nothing (0 mpg). Stepping on brake to slow vehicle drains energy to heat. The energy was obtained earlier when you were accelerating. So, as far as possible, reduce acceleration and use engine brake as much as possible (9999 mpg). :thumbsup:
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Another interesting observation. It was interesting playing with the MPG gauge because it has a gallon per hour function. I was able to play with the consumption of various items. For example, aircon increases comsumption by 20% when car is idling. This was in the U.S. where it was relatively cool (winter-spring). So can expect quite alot more here. Headlights increase consumption by about 5% during idling.
Idling consumes about .4 gallon/hour (~1.6L/hour).
Another example about aircon. When I used to work in tuas, I leave at 6-630 and aircon will usually be lowest speed ( I set 27). FC is 17km/L. When I go ICT, I leave at 5.30 and car gets really hot. Aircon will full blast for about 5-10 (sometimes 15 mins) mins to cool down to 27 degrees. My FC during ICT will drop to 15.5 km/L. Driving pattern remains the same because camp and work place in same area.
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Hey aerosignal, so disregarding the human safety aspect, its not harmful to the car if I coast on Neutral with my engine on?
As in, it won't spoil the transmission? Latio is not flat-towable mah.
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Hey aerosignal, so disregarding the human safety aspect, its not harmful to the car if I coast on Neutral with my engine on?
As in, it won't spoil the transmission? Latio is not flat-towable mah.
Er that one I don't really know. Effect to car, coasting at neutral is related to the transmission, not the engine.
At neutral, you have to burn gas because your engine is no longer driven by your wheels.
With engine brake, you may slow down abit. However, I find that on ben shears, I can sustain 80 kph coming down without steppping on accelerator at all. This means that I am burning 0 fuel when coming down the bridge.
I think you got the neutral coasting idea from hypermilling sites where they do at times coast at neutral. However, most of these people drive hybrids and it works very well for U.S. roads where they have long stretches of roads with gentle incline. In our case, the slopes are usually steep and if you go to neutral, you will accelerate down the slope so much you have to use your brakes to slow down (traffic). As mentioned before, everytime you step on brakes, the energy you created goes into thin air, wasted as heat.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't try coasting at neutral myself because I don't think I can save more that way. Just accelerate less so you brake less.
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Er that one I don't really know. Effect to car, coasting at neutral is related to the transmission, not the engine.
At neutral, you have to burn gas because your engine is no longer driven by your wheels.
With engine brake, you may slow down abit. However, I find that on ben shears, I can sustain 80 kph coming down without steppping on accelerator at all. This means that I am burning 0 fuel when coming down the bridge.
I think you got the neutral coasting idea from hypermilling sites where they do at times coast at neutral. However, most of these people drive hybrids and it works very well for U.S. roads where they have long stretches of roads with gentle incline. In our case, the slopes are usually steep and if you go to neutral, you will accelerate down the slope so much you have to use your brakes to slow down (traffic). As mentioned before, everytime you step on brakes, the energy you created goes into thin air, wasted as heat.
For what it's worth, I wouldn't try coasting at neutral myself because I don't think I can save more that way. Just accelerate less so you brake less.
I always practice brake less. Onli no choice den i brake, normally will try my best not to press any brakes.
You can also try looking far, the furthest traffic condition or the next traffic light, den decide to press acc or dont press anithing, until u are close enuff to a stop den press brake.
When approaching a red light, I will aim for the shortest line and release acc and not braking onli when close, coz incase it turns green I still have some inertia with mi, so can move off much easier
Just 2 cents
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I always practice brake less. Onli no choice den i brake, normally will try my best not to press any brakes.
You can also try looking far, the furthest traffic condition or the next traffic light, den decide to press acc or dont press anithing, until u are close enuff to a stop den press brake.
When approaching a red light, I will aim for the shortest line and release acc and not braking onli when close, coz incase it turns green I still have some inertia with mi, so can move off much easier
Just 2 cents
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Actually somebody got it right in one of the topics before but I too lazy to go find it. Basically, when you don't step on accelerator when car is moving, the fuel injectors cut off (no fuel at all). When the vehicle slow down to a preset speed 20 kph or something like that the fuel injectors turn back on again to keep the engine running.
True, When I see red light far ahead and no car behind me, I just left go acc. The car will slow down to ~20kmj then there is a sudden slight rush forward guess the car decide to pump some oil to engin at that time. I am driving a CVT so the rush is not due to gear change. Did not change to N
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Ah I see. Because when I see the light turn red in front of me, I let go the accelerator, but then the engine brake don't let me roll as much, so I still have to pump a little more gas.
Thats why I thought changing to N is better mah. HAHA!
Thanks! :thumbsup:
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Ah I see. Because when I see the light turn red in front of me, I let go the accelerator, but then the engine brake don't let me roll as much, so I still have to pump a little more gas.
Thats why I thought changing to N is better mah. HAHA!
Thanks! :thumbsup:
Chg to N is ok right? But no point to chg to N if you only need to wait for 1min for the light to turn green?
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Shifting of auto gear from D to N when car is in motion will damage the auto gearbox in the long run.
If you don;t intend to keep your car for long, then it might be ok :unsure:
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Shifting of auto gear from D to N when car is in motion will damage the auto gearbox in the long run.
If you don;t intend to keep your car for long, then it might be ok :unsure:
iagree.
try not to switch gear anyhow.
regards.
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And during cold starts in the mornings, I always allow the engine to run for 10 seconds to allow the oil to flow and lubricate the parts before I shift from P to D and driver off.
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And during cold starts in the mornings, I always allow the engine to run for 10 seconds to allow the oil to flow and lubricate the parts before I shift from P to D and driver off.
Sometimes quite rush in the morn, so no time to warmup engine till blue light off, but i make sure i don't rev over 2000rpm until engine is warmed-up... ;)
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I always practice brake less. Onli no choice den i brake, normally will try my best not to press any brakes.
You can also try looking far, the furthest traffic condition or the next traffic light, den decide to press acc or dont press anithing, until u are close enuff to a stop den press brake.
When approaching a red light, I will aim for the shortest line and release acc and not braking onli when close, coz incase it turns green I still have some inertia with mi, so can move off much easier
Just 2 cents
Hey bro xuan, that's what I practice during drivin too...and the best thing is it'll also improve your FC :thumbsup:
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True, When I see red light far ahead and no car behind me, I just left go acc. The car will slow down to ~20kmj then there is a sudden slight rush forward guess the car decide to pump some oil to engin at that time. I am driving a CVT so the rush is not due to gear change. Did not change to N
Ooi, another Malaysian in our forum ah. KMJ ;D
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i'm not sure what effect does shifting out from D to N while in motion has - probably damage to TC lockup clutch if it was done at high speeds? but don't ever shift from N back into D while in motion because that will most certainly put strain on the bands that activate specific gear ratios, etc. also don't do stuff like rev your engine in N and throw your gear into D, this will certainly get some stuff all burnt up as well. i used to have a friend borrow my old car and do "engine braking", which i told him off... if u wanna do crazy ******** like these, please rent a car! (which he actually did, and i pray for that altis..)
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Sometimes quite rush in the morn, so no time to warmup engine till blue light off, but i make sure i don't rev over 2000rpm until engine is warmed-up... ;)
There is no need to warm up in the morning until the "Cold Engine" blue light goes off.
Just 10 SECONDS will do, to allow the gearbox and engine oil to flow through the metal parts inside your engine and lubricate 'em before you drive off.
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it's not called an oil temp indicator for nothing right? the tempeature sensor is there to check that the car (engine oil) is warmed up to optimal operational condition before the blue light goes off.
If that is really unneccessay, why wasn't an engine oil flow LED indictor built instead?
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The blue light is an engine temperature indicator, not an engine oil temperature indicator.
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It water temp not oil temp. :smile:
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its water temp bro. sometimes in cold country the water will freeze and cause the coolant to freeze up and the engine can't start. singapore is not a big deal. just start the car and u will realize the RPM is quite high, let the RPM settle down and u can actually drive off already. in fact you can drive off immediately. just do it slowly and by the time u get out of the carpark, the engine is already starting to warm up a bit.
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its water temp bro. sometimes in cold country the water will freeze and cause the coolant to freeze up and the engine can't start. singapore is not a big deal. just start the car and u will realize the RPM is quite high, let the RPM settle down and u can actually drive off already. in fact you can drive off immediately. just do it slowly and by the time u get out of the carpark, the engine is already starting to warm up a bit.
Some correction, even if the coolant freezes (although seldom will freeze unless sub zero temperature), the engine will still able to start. For a engine to ease of start up depending on spark plug, you can change to a cold plug for cold start. Once engine start, the coolant will be "defrost" anyway. Engine oil will aid in lubricating plus a secondary role of cooling the engine as well. Hope this info help to clear all misunderstanding. :smile:
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thx for correction bro!
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:yehyeh: Mari Kita....
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thx for correction bro!
No worry Bro, we all learning together. :D
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Given our local temperatures, it is probably very safe to start the engine and just drive off at a relaxed pace. It will probably take longer to warm up the transmission fluid if you're not moving the car.
My understanding of spark plugs is that:
- cold plugs are thermally more conductive than hot plugs. They are meant for aggressive driving styles as it takes a higher engine load to keep them at optimal temperatures. Low plug temperatures will accumulate carbon deposits because there is insufficient temperature to burn it off. Excessively high temperatures will damage the electrodes.
- hot plugs are less thermally conductive and these are specified for our cars as engine loads tend to be lower and the plugs need to maintain an optimal temperature to prevent fouling.
But as always, I could be wrong.
When shifting to N, the forward drive clutch disengages. This is NOT the torque converter. It is debatable whether shifting to N while at speed will damage the transmission. In any case, I shift to N at red lights. It reduces my engine load and fuel consumption while avoiding vibration. Having the engine turning the torque converter while the output shaft is held stationary will only heat up the transmission fluid... I have connected ScanGauge to a Jazz CVT before and found that shifting to N while stationary will reduce fuel consumption.
For the Latio CVT, torque converter lock-up occurs at speeds above 18km/h. If you release the accelerator above that speed and keep the shifter in D, the ECU will cut-off the fuel. Because the HR15DE does not have valve shut-off (like the Civic Hybrid), the engine will act like an air pump and you will feel the car decelerating at a higher rate than if you shift to N. I am guessing that fuel cut-off is cancelled when engine speed falls to about 1100rpm or when the toque converter is unlocked. When the Latio TCM (transmission control module) detects a downslope, it will drop the CVT gear ratio to increase engine brake force. This will slow the car even more. This is less obvious/ negligible if you enter the decline at speeds above 70km/h.
You can sometimes cancel the torque converter lock-up by releasing the accelerator and then gently tapping it again and letting go. This only works at speeds below 60km/h. This is useful when coasting downhill around bends--you don't want to slow down, but you don't want to have the car in N either (for safety's sake).
My personal style is to take my foot off the accelerator when I anticipate the lights wrongly or if they are unpredictable and I need to stop fairly quickly. If I see a red light far ahead, I will shift to N and allow the car to coast to a stop.
I think the HR15DE + CVT is a fairly good set up for hypermiling. I imagine that holding a steady 75km/h on highways without air-conditioning will return close to 24km/L. Personally, I have not achieved this before. However, it is possible to get an average of 21km/L over a tank of petrol if you have the right route and driving style.