Hi Guys just wanna share my opinion
First, the car is owned previously, so do check out the filters, and perhaps flush engine, not much details I had, but these are plausible things I would do. in short, ensure the car is as stock is as possible on the components. this inc ensuring the tyres and rims are stock or near stock spec
Next, regarding fuel, I find different brands of fuel have different sorts of additives. some cleaner, some more power, some I dun know if any additives existed. So different brands of fuel in my opinion will give you different results and cost factor. when I took my new car, i remember vividly the car salesman of 25 yrs with TCM said to me as I start the engine "eh dun use 92, will not be good for your car engine", which on the 3rd mnth I disregarded his advise and when ahead with 92 fuel, I got a shock, 60KM for just a quater, at E light it was 320KM, further verified with another 3 full tanks relative result observed. reverting to my "normal" brand, I consistently get same result, which was like "spoilt", so I went for the "branded" cleanest and premium priced fuel for 2 full tanks before acheiving normal FC with my regular fuel
with regards to FC reading I disagree the practice of using a quater mark as a good indication. the "float" in the tank for reading fuel status is always in "unstable" state, meaning when U read your fuel meter, please ensure U are really on a flat plain, U can do a simple verification, when your E light just comes on, find a steep ram or sometimes a slope, and u will notice the E light goes away, I've also noticed on a bloody hot day, the E light seems to come on rather quickly and disappears when I collect my car in the cool evening and only to reappear again when I completed a 25KM journey
Our car weighs higher when fully fueled, as the car uses fuel, the car weight goes down gradually, thus the FC will range across from a fully fueled status to the last 10L, this is no rocket science but straight forward engineering facts, where the FC is in propotion to the overall weight of the car, attributed by how much fuel is left vs the distance travelled plus engine idle.
As for ECU, it constantly "learns" your driving pattern, takes about a few days to adapt it. Anyway when I do serviceing in TCM, I was always reading a slip given that says "ECU RESET DONE", which I find it annoying as the car needs to readapt to my driving style which in the midst cause me to have higher FC. So dun have to waste time and money for the sole purpose of resetting ECU.
So in summary, just ensure the car is stock, well maintained, optimally fueled and enjoy.